XH Motorcycles Forum
General Communications Forums => General Discussion Similar to Facebook => Topic started by: AZSUPERX on September 02, 2012, 09:03:48 PM
-
I just purchased a 99 Super X #1145 and am corrently putting it back together. It's a basket case right now but I have lots of parts and spare parts. As long as I don't run into an big problems it should be back on the road in a month! I'm super excited to get her up and running again. Any info or advise is greatly appreciated.
-
I'm curious: why is it a basket case? What happened to cause it to be taken apart in the first place?
Take lots of pictures share the progress.
-
Long story from the previous owner. :-X It was running and he took some old super x sheetmetal and started making a bobber/chopper, but never finished. Now that I have it I want to get it back to really close to stock except I will most like change the paint sceme since it needs repainting. I will get some pictures up tomorrow.
-
I worked on the bike a little more today and came to a stopping point of needing to buy a battery, a throttle cable and the right hand control that has the on/off switch. I can't get it to turn over and I think it's because the on/off switch is missing parts inside of it. I did manage to get quite a bit of parts bolted on and it's looking better and better. Here are some pictures
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/coolmanaz/0903121405.jpg)
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/coolmanaz/0903121406.jpg)
Here is the part I'm needing.
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii7/coolmanaz/0903121406a.jpg)
-
Nice one-piece seat.
Are those EH slash-cut mufflers? They look like they're spun upward. Could just be an illusion.
-
deadwood/jenny seat...
those mufflers do look turned up... even fatter than OEM slashcuts... wonder what they are...
Looks like you've got a good start on a wonderful machine....
keep us posted... don't speak for everyone, but I like to see progress in projects.... Cool!!
-
Thanks I'm loving the way things are rolling along. The pipes are factory pipes the have been cut into slash cut pipes and are super loud. I have another set of stock pipes and only one factory slash cut pipe for some reason? ::) I have a solo seat and quite a few spare parts. I have the back chrome bag rest but no brackets ::). 3 or 4 ignition switches spare valves, pistons, clutches gears and tons of gaskets. I also have a spare fuel tank and a battery cover. Looks like the PO did away with the tilt switch :o I will keep posting progress although it may be slow until I get some parts I need. :(
-
Deadwood handlebars too.
I would imagine a home cut set of exhaust would be unbelievably loud. I thought the factory slash cuts were too loud so I run the stock mufflers with the freeze plug thingys knocked out.
Is that an oil pressure gauge?
-
Deadwood handlebars too.
I would imagine a home cut set of exhaust would be unbelievably loud. I thought the factory slash cuts were too loud so I run the stock mufflers with the freeze plug thingys knocked out.
Is that an oil pressure gauge?
Yeah I have the stock bars also, not sure which ones are more comfortable? Yeah it has an Autometer gauge installed by the previous owner.
-
Our tilt switches... have a tendancy to corrode, and shut off the bike. Some of us have ran a jumper thru them so that it doesn't happen. May not be a bad thing if it was removed..... depending on your point of veiw...
-
forgot..
I have DWS bars on my bike. I'm 6'2".... around 215 pounds... at the age of 59, and really don't notice any discomfort. I like the look, and don't mind them at all.
My oldest sons blue has OEM stock bars.... they are also comfortable for me.
We both have found that the Corbin seats to be more comfortable for us, rather than the OEM's. .. but there are plenty of folks out there that are just fine with the OEMs, and have gotten rid of their corbins...
-
Our tilt switches... have a tendancy to corrode, and shut off the bike. Some of us have ran a jumper thru them so that it doesn't happen. May not be a bad thing if it was removed..... depending on your point of veiw...
Yeah it has a jumper wire but I read a lot of people say these bikes should really have them on them. So I wasn't sure what the opinions of the real riders are.
-
yes that is a variable opinion within X world.....
The DOT and what ever else departments of federal protection.... it makes sense to have it operational..... at 50+ pounds fuel pressure and an accident, I'm sure I would want it working at that time... it would break my heart to see 525 go up in flames on a simple accident.
But I try to do what I can with with cash I have.... currently, mine is operational.
I have seen and heard of some that are badly corroded....
-
yes that is a variable opinion within X world.....
The DOT and what ever else departments of federal protection.... it makes sense to have it operational..... at 50+ pounds fuel pressure and an accident, I'm sure I would want it working at that time... it would break my heart to see 525 go up in flames on a simple accident.
But I try to do what I can with with cash I have.... currently, mine is operational.
I have seen and heard of some that are badly corroded....
I was hearing more issues of starving for oil if it were to be dropped or fall over and starve the engine for oil. Like I said I'm a noobie when it comes to EH bikes so I've been trying to read alot and learn that way since I don't know anyone locally with one.
-
the tilt is a safety issue... shuts off FI, just like a FI car if in an accident. And its a good idea. But if it corrodes and the bike won't start, its a pain. I've only dealt with 1 with that issue.
As for oil starvation. .... it can be a real issue if you don't know. For example does your X have the oil pick up tube inside the primary? It is an aftermarket tube, that was developed by the vendors, so that the owners can warm their bikes up on the kick stand. Early on it was proven that the X's would cavitate the oil, and actually suck air on the kickstand during warm up. Proven with a manual oil pressure gauge mounted in the oil pressure sending unit hole. There's a very old video that was made in the early days, that shows this demostration. The manual gauge was bobbing the needle a lot. ...
So if you were to bypass or remove the tilt switch, and dump the bike... like most bikes, I'd say yeah, it probably wouldn't do it any good if it stayed running...
But hey.... who wants to dump an X... I mean really..... hee hee hee....
-
I'm not sure if it has the aftermarket tube or not. I guess once I get it running I will watch my oil pressure guage to see if it fluctuates. I certainly don't want to drop my bike :o I worked on my bike for a little while today and sanded the front fender down and repianted it. Tomorrow I will install it! ;D
-
I mounted the front fender yesterday and started going through the wiring and puting thebattery box and circuit mounts back on. Looks like the tilt switch is still there and still hooked up. :o The starter soleniod looks to be an aftermarket one. There are two wires that come off of it and plug into a brown two prong plug with two wires. Not sure what this is or what is supoosed to be there. ??? I have a few parts on order like the right side control switches, throttle cables, battery and a new belt. I'm just trying to do what I can. Even with a full set of parts and service manuals with all the wiring schematics it is kind of confusing. I've been a mechanic for 20 years but this is different than anything I have ever worked on! :-\ It's getting more parts on it and looking better though! 8)
-
Also if I do need to bypass the tilt switch to test it which of the three wires do I jump?
-
Been a while since I was at that point. And was thinking a owner could just run a jumper across... according to the schematic it would be the Orange to Red/Gray... as shown on here...
http://www.excelsiorhenderson.com/pages/tech/pdf/EH_Super_X_Wiring_Schematic_X.pdf
-
Been a while since I was at that point. And was thinking a owner could just run a jumper across... according to the schematic it would be the Orange to Red/Gray... as shown on here...
http://www.excelsiorhenderson.com/pages/tech/pdf/EH_Super_X_Wiring_Schematic_X.pdf
Thanks Thats the wires I figured needed to be jumped across but wasn't sure. I will give it a try because I have no power at the injection fuse or ignition fuse.
-
Ok I got some more new parts! I installed the handle bar control switch and now when I tun on the ignition switch it pops the ignition fuse almost instantly. ??? I also found out the turn signal control is bad cause it pops the light fuse and the control stinks. >:( I did get a new battery, new throttle cables and a new drive belt. I guess I need to start looking at the wiring schematic and see where I need to start testing wires, unless someone has an idea where I should start.
-
I'm thinking before something gets cruel and unusual punishment.... and that the bike was basically a basket.....
go thru all the wiring very closely.
A while back I came across a "ghost" electrical problem that blew the fuse to the relays when starting.... at whim
That ghost turned out to be a "pinhole" (at best) sized tear in the wiring by the ECU. Took a lil bit of looking, but was found.
As the manufacturer of the wiring harness really kept things short in length on the wires.... it will probably be well worth that close look....
-
After talking to the previous owners relative thats why he tore it apart was to find this issue. He was riding and blew the belt off and it got caught up in the rear fender....by the computer and tilt switch that is damaged so I'm going to start looking there first!
-
awesome.... pretty good start there!
-
Man... I'd do a complete wire harness inspection. Pay close attention to anywhere the wires are tight. Along the back bone towards the ECU is a favorite place to rub. Make sure you have good grounds too! There is a reason your blowing fuses and making sure all is good is a smart move. Handle bar controls are cheap on E-Bay or on www.ehparts.net.
Jumper
-
Man... I'd do a complete wire harness inspection. Pay close attention to anywhere the wires are tight. Along the back bone towards the ECU is a favorite place to rub. Make sure you have good grounds too! There is a reason your blowing fuses and making sure all is good is a smart move. Handle bar controls are cheap on E-Bay or on www.ehparts.net.
Jumper
Yeah I plan on doing a full inspection of the entire harness front to back and top to bottom! :(
-
good idea.....
-
I had the day off work today so I jumped into the bike and had her running in about two hours! ;D I found the wiring harness was stretched at a goofy angle at the computer and the tilt switch was bad. I temporaroly bypasses the tilt switch and have put about 25 miles on it today. What an amazing riding bike! I am going to order new tires tomorrow so I can get to riding without worries of the dry rotted tires. I also need to change the oil what do you guys run, brand and type?
-
oh us X folks get crazy when it comes to oil..... have had huge discussions in the past...
the top 2 probably most common amongst us is Amsoil 20/50 Vtwin oil, or Mobil 1 20/50 Vtwin oil.
There are a few out there also adding an additive to the oil, now the sulphur count is down.... I'll let Mike Degrood speak about that...
Currently I just use Amsoil, but have ran quite a bit of the mobil 1.... its what ever is cheapest or easiest to get at the moment...
-
I've been running the Lucas full synthetic lately. No problems so far other than finding 4 quarts in the same location.
Strange thing is we have Lucas Oil Stadium and Lucas Oil Raceway within 10 miles of my house. Maybe that's where they keep all the stock. :-\
-
Cool I'll see what I can find around here.
Also I was looking at the production chart on the EH official headquaters site and it shows #1145 to be the 1130 bike built and it says for customer it was a photo/surgis and to be new black color. A few pages over it shows some bikes being Sturgis bikes, did they just forget the t in sturgis on the listing for #1145? Does anyone know what this means?
-
no idea.... there are a few stories out there, that can't be proven...
for example...
I helped purchase a R/O out of Council Bluffs Iowa a few years ago. The owner (#2), said when he bought it, the owner swore up and down that this R/O was in a promo photo shoot..... and that is why it came with a chrome timing cover.... a lil more bling for the photos.....
can't be proven, but non the less interesting...
My bike (525) #310 off the line... was built and shipped to a dealer in Alabama, then shipped back to Minniapolis..... I'm the third owner, and took possession with 1.6k miles on it.
-
Kind of what I figured. I changed the oil and filter this morning and went on about a little 100 mile cruise! Only issue is I have a small oil leak on a sensor by the oil fill tube, other than that it was a great ride!
-
I took #1145 out to see how she liked the high country of Arizona yesterday. It was the first of many longer rides it's gonna get, put 350 miles on her. As far as riding it was awesome, I got tons of looks and ttons of questions on what kind of bike it was. I had two issues first riding pretty hard through the mountains where there were several sharp curves to where I was taking the pretty fast and laying the bike over more than usual, it spit a little oil out of the crankcase breather tube. I have relocated the breather hose from the air cleaner housing to a little breather/filter right under the seat. The oil level was right on full when I left and after it spit some out it is a little lower than half way on the normal opperating range. Has anyone else experience this issue or have any ideas? The second was we got stuck in traffic at a detour for about 30 minutes and after about 15-20 minutes the bike seemed to be getting warm and had a small amount of oil smoke coming from the crankcase breather, once we got moving agian it seemed to cool off and stop. I'm running 5w-50 synthetic oil and it was about 75-80 degrees when it got warm. I have a pretty big oil cooler on my bike but it doesn't have a fan. Once again any advise is appreciated!
-
even with a larger than life oil cooler..... without a fan drawing cooling air across it, its gonna get hot... Once I got the fan put on 525, I haven't had any more hot engine issues... its pretty surprising how quick they'll warm up, even in cool weather...
I'm no engineer, but I can't imagine how big that cooler would have to be to disperse the heat without some sort of air flow...
as for the spitting/puking... realize that the breather outlet for the crankcase is at the very back of the primary. If you hit it hard... there is a real possibility of throwing oil into that outlet.... or sloshing it to the back for a better discription. Some of the X's puke all the time (one of ours is really picky about how much you put into it, and another one of ours has never puked.
-
Dunno about venting your breather under your seat... Why not run a hose all the way around your rear fender and out the bottom of the fender. If it pukes, it pukes on the ground and you don't have oil vapors all under you seat and in your electronics cover etc...
Jumper
-
I'm not sure ther is room for the little breather filter under there, but I could defently try it seems like a better idea.
-
Not sure what Jumper does on his... but mine is just a vacant tube that dumps where he describes....
pretty sure no contaminants are going to crawl that far up that tube, when it cools.... especially when you know there is oil pooling in that line somewheres....
-
Ok I'll give that a try . I also checked the oil and it was right on the max level so I must of had it just a little over full :-[ I drained a little oil to get it right in the center of the normal range and I'm going to ride it to work tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks for the advise guys!
-
may still puke a bit....
there is a difference on the dip sticks from 99 to 00... but I honestly can't remember what it was, other than the 00 is supposed to be "correct"....
so with that..... I'd keep it around the center hash mark. I've made some adjustments to 525, but before... 3 quarts 4 oz.'s was just about right every time... and wouldn't puke. Our blue 00 is just short of 3 quarts 4 oz.'s.... although that bike never really puked badly. ...
just take note when you do the oil change/fill ...
-
Ok so Tuesday my fuel pump quit on me. I swapped it out for the one on the cross reference page for parts that was a E2042 Car Quest pump. Now it will start but seems like the fuel pressure is off, maybe to high. My fuel pressure tester is at work so I guess I'll have to wait to test it. Also the check engine light is now on.
-
fuel pump dying off... probably set off the "lite" ...
Jamie/Marty have the correct pumps and regulators......
I know of owners to have purchased off the shelf pumps with luck... but I also know of owners that have had problems...
I'd bet all the vendors have the correct items needed, and have done some research to make the needs...
Was there fuel in that tank when you purchased it? ... and if so, how long had it been sitting.... I personally have had to fight the last 2 X's that I worked on, due to old fuel. Injectors and pumps...
And unfortunately.... ethanol
-
fuel pump dying off... probably set off the "lite" ...
Jamie/Marty have the correct pumps and regulators......
I know of owners to have purchased off the shelf pumps with luck... but I also know of owners that have had problems...
I'd bet all the vendors have the correct items needed, and have done some research to make the needs...
Was there fuel in that tank when you purchased it? ... and if so, how long had it been sitting.... I personally have had to fight the last 2 X's that I worked on, due to old fuel. Injectors and pumps...
And unfortunately.... ethanol
It had a little fuel in the tank just regular gas, I drained it all out then added premium gas and some cleaner/stabilizer. I'm not sure if it's the pump or a plugged injecter issue! What vendors have parts? I only found one that has a complete pump assembly for 599.00 with exchange and thats out of my price range.
-
Atlantic EH... Jamie/Marty have pumps and regulators that work, that are not OEM. Just bought a complete set last winter from them.... pretty sure it wasn't that price..... you can buy what you need...
they also have recalibrated used injectors for sale/trade...
-
Ok I will check them out. Thanks
-
I'm going to order a new pump, regulator and filter Monday. I have been scewing around all week with this "cross pump" with no luck. >:(
-
I installed the new pump and regulator and it still acts the same as it did with the "cross pump". It runs like crap and won't come off idle without feathering the throttle and it still won't run right tho. Any ideas?
-
Is there any way to check codes without a scanner?
-
the operating system is OBD1.... but I don't know if the codes would translate.... my guess would be yes....
with it still missing.... my guess would be a plugged or partial plugged injector(s).
How old was the original fuel when you got it? .... I've fought the lasts 2 X's in my shop due to old fuel .... Injectors on one, and fuel pump on the other. ...
got anymore symptoms.... please send them here. I'm willing to help....
Bruce
-
I am thinking injectors as well since it ran great up until the pump locked up. I ran fuel system cleaner through the tank and that probably cuased the break up of trash in side the tank.The fuel was about 5 years old. I drained what I thought was all the fuel but there was still some in the tank as well as the original fuel strainer came apart and thats what locked up the original pump. I see two different part numbers for injectors, are they different? I have my parts guy tracking down both numbers of the Walbro injectors, or is there a good place to get them? Thanks for the help I'm dieing to ride again.
-
what you've all said .... makes sense to me.... .... got a triumph dealer close by..... they have our injectors too....
Have to get Jamie involved on the numbers, as I don't know the difference..... I'm betting Marty would know via phone call....
Old fuel these days is nasty. Especially ethanol ..... The last one, the fuel smelled like it was 50 years old, and looked it, whereas in reality it was just barely a year.
With information I got from Jamie concerning ethanol.... I try at all accounts to avoid that fuel. Especially on long sits....
-
I talked to Jamie today and I'm going to try to get my injetors cleaned at a local place if they can't/won't I will order new ones!
-
and Jamie/Marty have some used injectors that have been cleaned and recalibrated for less money...
-
Yeah I just hate buying something used unless I have no option. I checked the codes today and only showed a fuel pump code shorted to ground...most likely when the old pump locked up. I cleared the code and ran it for a few minutes to see if the code would return and it didn't. I pulled the injectors and going to take them in tomorrow to have them cleaned and checked. Wish me luck!
-
good for you
-
Today I had my injectors cleaned and tested. One was flowing at 37 CFM and the other at 58, now they are both at 67 CFM and the bike runs great! Cost me 24 bucks for the work and new o-rings! 8)
-
great!!
-
Thanks for all the advice! Time to ride here avrages are 70-80 degrees during the day!!
-
I took the bike for a ride yesterday and made it about 50 miles before it started having issues. Today I pulled the injectors and cleaned them both and they were full of trash again. I installed a in-line fuel filter on the frame rail under the tank with all new fuel line and rode another 60 miles with no issues. Looking in the tank I see no trash but hopefully the filter will catch the trash. Since the filter is only 4 bucks I'll just keep changing it once a month.
-
A few thoughts:
Did you install a new filter with the new pump, other than the in-line filter you installed externally? The pumps sold by both Jamie and Marty and John Jones have a "sock" style filter that goes in the tank with the pump in place of the little metal screen on the original.
Whatever trash you're getting in the in-line filter is coming from the tank. If you didn't put a new filter in the tank with the new pump, that trash is going through the pump and regulator first, then out.
If the issues many have had with these bikes is any indication, it's possible the factory liner is starting to flake off inside the tank. I found my 2016 in a dealer that let it sit on a shelf for 10 years with the original gallon of gas in it. The tank liner had failed. The dealer then flushed the tank for me and the inside rusted. I eventually shipped the tank to Jamie and Marty for their vendor to clean and re-line.
-
Yeah John.....
I talked to Jamie over a year ago.... and that year compared to the year before. Well he got a lot of tanks in with the liners falling apart. He has found an outfit that relines the X tank with a material that doesn't break down. It isn't your common "tank cream" that several outfits are selling out there.
I do believe this is going to become a very common event with lots of X's that are sitting around instead of ridden.
One of the worst culperates is ethanol fuel sitting in the tanks for extended periods of time. According to Jamie, the fuel "stratifies" or separates out of its mixture. Once done, the alcohol is one level, moisture another, and the chemicals the other.
This witches brew is fine if the bike is ridden (but I gotta admit I won't use it, if I don't have to), but once its sitting around for a spell, its all bad news.
Jamie liner trick is ethanol proof .... so once its done it don't have to be done again. Unlike those other products out there...
-
I just replaced the pump, sock and regulator from Marty & Jamie. The inside of the tank looks great no peeling or flaking that I can see anywhere. There was a little trash in the tank but I flushed it out when I replaced the pump. I did notice the fuel line was coming apart form the tank to the injector rail, so I replaced it and added a filter for good measure! I put some more miles in it today with no issues. Hopefully the new fuel line and filter will stop anything from getting to the injectors.
-
Bruce.....
Marty told me the same thing when I talked to her about my tank in 2011. Living in the metro Chi-town area, I can't get away from E10 fuel. That's one of the reasons I had them do the tank in the end. That and it had rusted badly enough that I didn't feel confident I could get enough of the rust out to keep a new liner in place.
I even called vendors around Chicago to see what they could do. They were cheaper, but none of them would guarantee no harm to the paint. Several even told me I would have to wrap it up myself and if the wrapping failed, it'd be my problem. That wasn't too inspiring for what was then a no-mile Jennie.
I agree with you. I think we'll start seeing a bunch of these bikes with the factory liner failing in the future. Fortunately, there is a solution available.
Az....
Good for you. Best of luck.
-
Wow I guess it's a good thing I have a spare fuel tank! :o
-
Ok so I started having issues with it running rough and not wanting to idle, different simptoms from last time. I pulled the tank and found the liner is starting to peel :'( way back in the rear of the tank where I can only see with a mirror. The injectors are clean and I think I have a different issue now. It runs awesome when the temprature outside it cold but if when it warms up outside it doesn't want to idle but will run down the road fine. Almost like it is getting too much fuel. I have no codes and the only thing that looks odd on the scanner is the throttle position won't go below 10% and won't go over 90%. Temprature sensors both seem to be reading correctly. Could the IAC be getting lazy or starting to go bad? Once again any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
-
AZ ....
I think you maybe on to sumthing, with your throttle. You can reset it with the SuperXtune (sorry I don't remember if you have that)
AIC could be gunked up... or going south too...
But I'd be looking at the Throttle settings first...
Bruce
-
AZ ....
I think you maybe on to sumthing, with your throttle. You can reset it with the SuperXtune (sorry I don't remember if you have that)
AIC could be gunked up... or going south too...
But I'd be looking at the Throttle settings first...
Bruce
I only have the factory EH scan tool the Examinator. Can it be done on that? I will go play around and see if it gives me an option.
-
Hey AZ,
This response is a little off topic, but relates to a previous post in October. (Sorry for the late response, I guess I haven't been checking the site as often as I thought I was).
You guys were talking about oil, and I wanted to recommend that you add something called ZDDP to your oil. It was actually recommended to me by a fellow Xer on the EHRB, and I did a little research on it.
ZDDP was an additive used in motor oil which prevents wear, especially on non-roller cam engines. It's a friction modifier that protects cam followers or lifters and other high friction areas. When cars started using catalytic converters, the stopped adding it to motor oil because it damages the catalyst.
This explains why there were a lot of cam failures by many American car manufacturers over the last 40 years. This also explains why most cars have roller cams now.
Oil that is advertised as "Motorcycle" oil may still have ZDDP in it, but I'm not sure. I usually run Napa 15-50 synthetic and add ZDDP to it as well. None of my local parts stores carry it, probably since there is little demand in the automobile world. I buy it on line, there's a few who sell it on eBay for around $8 - $10 a bottle. I usually buy several at a time to save a little money. For example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ZDDP-MAXX-ENGINE-OIL-ZDDP-ADDITIVE-ZINC-PHOSPHORUS-/270623997433?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f02727df9&vxp=mtr
Best of luck with your current problems, Bruce and Jumper are really great guys, always willing to help. (I can't be much help, I'm still learning these bikes myself). Fortunately for me, neither of my X's have had any driveability problems yet, and run like rocket powered tops! I've only dealt with charging system problems and transmission problems so far.
Mike
#741 #901
-
Mike,.... you are far more of a wrench than I ever thought to be..... you're just new to this world!!
AZ.... I've never been around an Examinator.... and as primitive a tool (old technology) as it is.... I'd guess that you should be able to reset the throttle with it. But I can't tell you where it would be. I'm still very simple with the superxtune, but the more exposure I get to it, the more I like it.
-
Ok I played with the Examinator and find no option to set the throttle position sensor. I found options to reset all factory setting and now it will hardly run at all unless it's cold outside and the engine is cold. I think I'm going to buy a SuperXtune and at least I'll know thats done. :-\
-
I read this last nite....
And I think your purchase of the superxtune is a smart move.... yeah I know its pricey, but its also very handy....
With it only running with the engine cool/cold and temps the same.... its sounds like its possibly running too much throttle once it warms up.....
lets see what the superxtune says... and maybe we can get Jamie to take some time to jump in here too.....
Bruce
-
I read this last nite....
And I think your purchase of the superxtune is a smart move.... yeah I know its pricey, but its also very handy....
With it only running with the engine cool/cold and temps the same.... its sounds like its possibly running too much throttle once it warms up.....
lets see what the superxtune says... and maybe we can get Jamie to take some time to jump in here too.....
Bruce
I figure if it doesn't solve my current issue it will help down the road!
-
You do realize that the Examinator handbook is hosted on this very site, right? The procedures you're looking for are on page 2-9 and 2-10.
http://www.excelsiorhenderson.com/pages/tech/pdf/EH_Examinator_Handbook_X.pdf
-
No I didn't Donkey... thank you.
I'm no wizard on computers or this web site.
I'll admit I struggle with the superxtune.... but I get better everytime I'm around it. I'm finding it a great tool in my shop...
-
I will have to check that out. Thanks
-
So I tried to reset the sensors and retune it to factory specs. Still runs the same. I tested the crankshaft position sensore today and it tested at 560 ohms when cold and after about two minutes of the bike running it started to stumble and die out and I checked it again and it was at 620 ohms. I think thios may be at least some of the issue since 588 ohms is the max.
-
Does anyone think I'm on the right path? I really don't want to just start replacing parts if I don't have to.
-
I can't promise you that you are on the right path.... as I'm not in person with the x. But from what you've stated here..... I think you are, in so much that I'd be going the same route, with what information that I have....
-
I was thinking so but then again I keep second guessing mysekf. I'm going to try the CPS and see what happens then maybe Santa will bring a SuperXtune :-\
-
nagging second guessing happens...
-
Well I found the throttle body bracket was braken so I welded it back together, about three weeks ago and still no change. Today I started it up and it seems to run great....only difference is today it's about 45 degrees instead of 85 degrees it was three weeks ago. My air temp sending unit has the tip almost broke off. Could this be an issue that would cause it to run only when it's cold outside?
-
Check your intake gaskets if you still have the factory throttle body support bracket. What happens when they break is the seal of the intake gets broken and the cylinder, if the front runs lean and gets hot, thus burning the exhaust valves and possible cracking the head. The rear can do the same although the Oxygen sensor that richens a lean mixture is located on the rear pipe. Since your throttle body bracket was broken, might as well do a wet/dry compression test, post results here if you like. If compression is good, replace intake gaskets, remove repaired throttle body bracket, place in right hand, throw as far away as you can, get an Air Filter backing plate from a Vendor and install after you have replaced intake gaskets.
Jumper
-
I ran a compression test but can't remember what the numbers were but they were about 8-10 psi less on the front cylinder. They stayed pretty consistant wet also. I will order a set of intake gaskets if I don't already have some in my box's of parts that came with the bike. I am also going to do the SuperXtune but have to wait until income tax time. Once again thank you for the advise. I need to get this bike running good and get to riding it....the wife is starting to frown on this not running bike thing! >:(
-
After much testing and searching I think I have a burned valve or bad rings on the front cylinder. >:( I have everything to rebuid the engine except the timing set. I have all the gaskets, valves and pistons and rings. I used a bore scope and don't see any scoring on the cylinder, so I could probably get away with just honing the cylinder. Now I'm thinking about just getting rid of the bike and all the parts. I love this bike and the way it rides but I really don't have the money to keep it going and I certainly don't want it to end up rotting in my garage or in someone elses either. I see most bikes around my area going for around $7,500-$9,000 I figured with all the spare parts and bike asking $5,000. Do you guys think that is reasonable?
-
Although its your choice .... I'm never comfortable with the notion of selling out. Our X's time to time can be very trying....
Your price sounds like its in the ballpark to me...
-
Yeah I eally like this bike but it seems to me after looking at most peoples bikes it's just one battle after another. I want a bike I can jump on at any time and go across country if I want knowing if I do break down I can get parts. I hate to see it go but looks like I'm gonna trade it in on a Harley and sell all the parts I have.
-
Has any of you rebuilt an engine? I'm really wanting to keep the engine but think if I do I should go through the engine just to know there are no issues there. I really want to keep this bike and I have most everything t build the engine except the timing set. So do I need any special tooling?
-
I know there are guys out here who have done engine work, but not sure to what extent. BTW, how many miles on this bike? Seems strange to need engine work unless the FO really racked up the miles.
-
I know there are guys out here who have done engine work, but not sure to what extent. BTW, how many miles on this bike? Seems strange to need engine work unless the FO really racked up the miles.
It had 12,799 miles. The PO had rode the crap out of it and moddified the air cleaner assembly and bypassed sensors. I traded it in on a Harley today. :-[ :) I have a lot of parts mostly new and some used. This week I will get a list of what I have and get it put up so you guys can keep your bikes going.
-
Well that's good news/bad news. Which HD you get?
I'd be interested in some spares...never know.
-
Well that's good news/bad news. Which HD you get?
I'd be interested in some spares...never know.
-
Can't tell from the pics, is that an American X? OK, jk...
-
I went through all the parts today and hopefully I can get it all typed up and get it posted tomorrow.
-
I got the list all typed up on a notepad but it will take forever to list each item to the clasified section. If anyone is interested in a list of parts send me a message and I will send you a list.
Thanks,
Chuck
-
You can send a copy to me at
superxparts@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Jumper
;)
-
Chuck I'd be interested also....
Wytfut@windstream.net
-
I would like a copy also.
Dennis
-
E-mail address for Dennis is xrider@hur.midco.net
-
Parts list have been sent. I will ship all parts on your dime. Just let me know what you want and I can get a shipping price.
-
Please send a list to me as well.
rt66john@hotmail.com
-
I, too, am interested in parts you have for sale. Please email me at: way2coolwheels@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Mike
#741 #901
-
Heck Chuck.... Seeing as there are a bunch of folks interested, Why not put them on E-Bay and see how it plays out?
Jumper
:o
-
Heck Chuck.... Seeing as there are a bunch of folks interested, Why not put them on E-Bay and see how it plays out?
Jumper
:o
I hate E-Bay! >:( Someone makes me a good offer they can take it all and do what ever they want with the parts. I have about 600 bucks in the new drive belt and oil cooler. If I can get a liitle above that it can all go.
-
I have the fuel tank and drive belt sold. I'm open to most offers. Need Harley parts, will trade if you have what I need.