XH Motorcycles Forum
Motorcycle Resource Forums => Technical Resource Discussion => Topic started by: Fanhead on February 23, 2016, 04:18:09 PM
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New to the forum and have owned #270 for a year now, love the bike but the vibrations between 2300 and 2800 rpm's are shaking my eyeballs out of my head.
I'm in Ontario Canada so not a lot of resources up here, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Make sure belt is loose... You owners manual is way too tight.
I put my belt on and if it jumps cogs, I tighten until it quits jumping cog...
And let's hope that solves it.
Next step will be motor mounts... How they look. Wash rust around caps or area? Pull the caps.... Are the center's sagging or sre they in the center? Looking at front mounts from front... Are they sagging or torn?.
Check that stuff out..and come back with a report.
Motor mounts can/will create all kinds of havoc...
And fan head, welcome to our little community... It's a good time
FlatlandersupportingXworld
Bruce
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Thanks wytfut for the welcome and the reply!
Belt is not an issue as the vibrations occur when driving with /without the bike in gear or when parked, motor mounts have been done twice already and are now at 10,000 miles.
I removed the caps, fronts looks prefect but the rears are not centred at all.
I'm thinking the mounts need to be done again but is there anything I can do to the engine to minimize the vibrations?
Thanks again !
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Early X... Built 3-16-99>3-19-1999... Probably has the early crank in it. Do like Bruce said and loosen the belt.. Check mounts...
Jumper
::)
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Thanks Jumper, new front and rear isolators on order and belt now loosen to turn 90 deg with me on it as per Atlantic's great advise.
Any tips on replacing the front and rears would be greatly appreciated
Thanks again!
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Fronts are e z... Pretty much straight forward....
Rears be prepared with a floor jack and pry bar....2# hammer and drift.
Start soaking rear and all rear assembly now... With a good penetrating oil.... I prefer kroil,
Don't be shy about running the Allen head bolts out a bit... Soak and strike once a day each direction. We want this to be simple when you r ready to do it
Have heard of horror stories of owners cuttin that rear rod out with torch. I have never had any issues... But you never know
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Hi Fanhead,
It turns out it's not the mounts alone that are the problem.....especially with the rears. The original chrome nuts that hold the mount into the frame "ears" were too shallow, and didn't fully seat the mounts into the opening. Then, as the mounts move in the "ears", they cause wear.
Get a hold of Atlantic, Jamie and Marty have updated mount nuts made of stainless steel that will keep the mounts from wallowing out the opening in the frame "ears" and causing further problems.
Mike
#741 #901
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And they also have the cheaper version.... The spacer washers that also work
Currently I he motor mount count is getting lean.... I strong recommend either one to support the design
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Speaking of early & late crankshafts'.....does anyone know the balance factor of the early vs late cranks?
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I'm sure some one on here does.... I do not
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Thanks for all the replies, parts are here today and looking forward to getting started.
For the rears the previous owned destroyed the shaft and currently there is a custom made one in place, he had a really hard time doing the rears.
I have a new shaft coming, replacing the entire rear mount system so hopefully this will fix the problem, at least till they wear again, having the belt loose will most likely extend the life greatly though.
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Picture of my front belt side motor mount, yep guess this was the cause, motor was resting on the frame.
Thanks again everyone.
Fanhead
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Yup.. That would be an issue...
Good to kno you found it....
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Fronts are e z... Pretty much straight forward....
Rears be prepared with a floor jack and pry bar....2# hammer and drift.
Start soaking rear and all rear assembly now... With a good penetrating oil.... I prefer kroil,
Don't be shy about running the Allen head bolts out a bit... Soak and strike once a day each direction. We want this to be simple when you r ready to do it
Have heard of horror stories of owners cuttin that rear rod out with torch. I have never had any issues... But you never know
I had the rear rod cold weld to the block and had to cut it out with a torch. The amount that sucked is immeasurable
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Matt,
I totally believe you. Humberto Martinez had the same ordeal.... torch and all.
I'm starting to wonderif it wouldn't be smart to pull rears off and lube up with some never sneeze.
Mine came off no problem... but obviously others....
Matt do you believe delay in replacing was an issue?
Bruce
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Matt,
I totally believe you. Humberto Martinez had the same ordeal.... torch and all.
I'm starting to wonderif it wouldn't be smart to pull rears off and lube up with some never sneeze.
Mine came off no problem... but obviously others....
Matt do you believe delay in replacing was an issue?
Bruce
Bruce,
My X was dumped by the previous owner at some point (he'd mounted his added oil blowback filter above the rear wheel so any blowback landed smack dab in the middle of the contact patch. I rectified this real quick after one too many public street hot shoe moments {the evo collection canister is actually a cool addition and cleaner} but the damage to the tank and one of the floor board bosses says to me it went down at speed) I think that contributed some to the cold weld. I did anti-seize the shyte out of it on reinstall. But yes, heat+two breaker bars+2 250 dudes = zero movement. When we cut it, it slid right out.