Transmission "Neutraling"

[2CoolWheels]

Okay, now I feel like an idiot....I read about the shift kits in this POST! Hey, it was months ago when Marty answered, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!
Anyway, that post is completely centered to the threaded hole it's in and there is no lock nut. The hex you see is part of the post.
As far as the spring goes, it's right up against the aluminum body, it can't come out of the notch. I will try to dislodge it, however, to be sure.
After rereading this entire post (ahem), I am concerned about the "rivet" Marty was talking about contacting the back of the clutch. There are marks on the face of the disc (washer, rivet?) that holds the return spring for the arm, like it has contacted the clutch. I can't see any wear marks on the back of the clutch however.  Not sure where to go with this one......

[Donkey Hotey]

Anyway, that post is completely centered to the threaded hole it's in and there is no lock nut. The hex you see is part of the post.

OK, I'd still check those dimensions. If they're off, nothing will work correctly. There may not be an adjustment but, if these are off, it's certainly the cause of the mis-shifting.

Here is a write-up with some good illustrations on the subject:

http://www.dansmc.com/gearshifters.htm

[wytfut]

We need some of Jamie's input... if he'll take the time to read all of this. He has a bunch of experience on all of this subject matter....

[Traveller]

Most of these issues were identified long ago, and with the help and input of owners, factory employees, and a couple of great machinists have been resolved.

1. The bushed gears (5 of them) in the transmission are incorrectly clearanced for our application. The bushing material is generic and the fitment is too loose. The bushings do not extend to the outer limits of the gear and allow the gear to wobble on the shaft creating a lot of unwanted vibration. To correct this defect new bushings must be cut of the proper material and fitted to the proper clearance.

2. The OEM C-clip under the constant side loading of the loose fitting OEM bushed gear will eventually fail, typically on 4th Input Gear. The solution in addition to fitting correct bushings is to use spiral clips that are designed to withstand the side load.

3. The false neutral is caused by the detent wheel over rotating. This is due to a combination of low spring tension and insuficiant ramp height on the neutral detent. Many years ago we redesigned the detent wheel and elimenated the false neutral problem. We also have the correct (stronger) spring in stock. Please remember to replace the spring mount that you modified, as Donkey Hotey advised.

4. The problem with the shift linkage pawl pin requires carefull investigation. Damaged clutch baskets seem to be the most common cause. Give me a phone call and I'll be happy to discuss what we've found over the years.

5. The shift pawl can be adjusted by tweeking the center separator of the large (cloths pin) type spring, but I doubt that you'll find it necessary as the adjustment is not critical for our application.

I hope some of this info helps.

Ride Safe,
Jamie
Atlantic E-H, llc
540-298-9310

[wytfut]

Thanx Jamie.... once again your expeience is most helpful....

thought of another one for you think about:
While attending the X rally this summer... Jim Turek wanted me to ride his Blue X..... stating that it was shifting harder than it had in the past...
This would be additional toe pressure. To me it was very similar to what I call "hot oil syndrome", where as, especially when moving slowly, when the oil is warm if not on the upper limits, I've witnessed that some X's will shift a bit harder....
But Jim's X was not hot...
I've suggested readjusting the clutch....
What's your thoughts Jamie?

[2CoolWheels]

Jamie,
   You rock! Thanks for the information and insight. I'm learning the ins and outs of these machines and I appreciate your years of experience and knowledge. Too bad you are located on the opposite side of the country from me.
   I'll be in touch.

[2CoolWheels]

Greg,
   I almost forgot to thank you as well for your input. I did check the gaps between the pins on the drum, they were centered as shown in the diagram.

[wytfut]

just a lil more info Jamie...
Mr. Tureks blue X shifted just a touch harder than one would expect with the toe, at any speed... it just felt like the hot oil syndrome...
thanx buddy...

[2CoolWheels]

Since going through my transmission and modifying spring tension, the shifting has been better, but not completely cured. I probably need to find the updated shift drum, or just live with it.
  And, I've noticed a hard shift problem with 901, similar to the one Bruce is describing. Not always, but on occasion. Again, I'll just live with it....a minor concession for riding the coolest bikes in town.