Failing ignition SWITCHES (not the buttefly)?

[Donkey Hotey]

How have the ignition switches been holding up? Have we seen any failures of the plastic switch assembly itself?

If there were a one-for-one replacement butterfly that could forever fix the breakage problem, would the switches last or have they also been going bad?

I have had zero issues but, I'd like to hear from others with higher mileage bikes.

Edit: wanted to add here. Did you know that the design of the original ignition lock housing was patented? Maybe you knew that. Did you know the illustrations on the patent don't match the final product? Yeah, neither did I until last night. Look closely at the butterfly. It's much smaller on the patent drawing and has a slightly different shape. The original was slimmer and more delicate.

https://patents.google.com/patent/USD432994S/

[bobbybhb]

Hi Greg
I have the updated switch.
I also have the old one which I took apart and found some broken plastic which I was able to gorilla glue back to a usable condition. I’m sure somebody could print a better one easily?
Cheers

[Donkey Hotey]

Hey Bobby, yeah, I think I remember you having issues with that switch. I have to wonder how many have had problems.

The internals are bone-headedly simple. You're absolutely correct: that back-plate is a great candidate for 3D printing.

The biggest problems I see happening are the copper contacts actually breaking and the housing breaking. The housing could be repaired by printing. Not sure what one would do about the contacts.

If the contacts ever corrode, steel wool and WD-40 will make them like new again.

A few days ago, I was going through the Digikey website, trying to find reliable lever-action micro switches suitable for making a replacement. I'm a little weary of them from past experiences like our brake light switch. Micro-switches often fail despite manufacturer claims and you can't open them up to 'clean' them. Then the biggest fear is selecting one that uses a non-standard mounting pattern and becomes obsolete five years down the road.

If the originals work, no reason to not continue using them. I'm still wondering what others have to say.

[wytfut]

The failure I've seen.... only one so far.... I believe was on Roger Hodges G/O or David Spry's Jennie.
The "glue" let go of the plastic surface. I'd say due to a contaminated surface.

As you stated, it is unbelievable simple design.... that I don't think has been a real issue, other than incidental....

[5ehsx]

Hi! the copper contacts in my ignition switch got broken quite early but I could repair in some way just bending what was left and it worked good for some years. Some small parts of the black plastic started as crumbling but it still worked well.
Just for some months ago, say about 12000 miles, the housing of the key cracked loosing some of the balls and other stuffs. I havn't found a way to repair yet. So far I'm using an ignition switch from an HD Dyna; this switch need to drill the original holder to fit, but I havn't done as I still hope to get the original on the go...
Take care you all!

[wytfut]

Interesting enough...
I was in a long phone call with Greg Cifu last week.
He has a complete fix for our ignition switches ....  better than OEM....
But he cant afford to make it.... out there in California and their tax laws...

sooner or later we as a community willl get this issue completely solved...

[Donkey Hotey]

Bruce, just to clarify that point: the fix I have is a mechanical replacement for the butterfly. It uses all the original lock components, looks and operates exactly the same as stock. Unfortunately that also means it uses the original black plastic ignition switch.

I was assured that the plastic switches were not failing and that we didn't need to address that part of the assembly. This is one of very few I've ever heard of. Has anyone else had the plastic switch assembly fail?