Runs decent when outside air is warm, runs bad when OI is cold.

[Jumper]

Kevin... Bet you a Nickel it's your fuel pump. It has enough fuel pressure for idle, but when you give it throttle, it runs out of gas? Am I on the right track? Get a fuel pressure gauge and use the test port on top of the throttle body to get a reading at start and while running.
report back if this doesn't help..
Jumper

[AZSUPERX]

Kevin... Bet you a Nickel it's your fuel pump. It has enough fuel pressure for idle, but when you give it throttle, it runs out of gas? Am I on the right track? Get a fuel pressure gauge and use the test port on top of the throttle body to get a reading at start and while running.
report back if this doesn't help..
Jumper

Something else to think about is you can have enough fuel pressure but not enough volume.

[Arctic Grayling]

Thanks you guys, I'll give it a try and let you know.
Something else I noticed was that the front cylinder was cooler by about a couple hundred degrees F, or so, then the back after these run test.  This was observerd by using one of those point and read thermometers on both exhaust pipes at the cylider head.  I was starting to suspect a coil although they both test good on the bench and read the same dwell on the computor (182 + or - ms) throughout the run test.

Kevin

[Jumper]

HMMM!! Run a wet and dry compression test while your doing the other tests. Make sure your compression is good. If you have a burnt valve, it should show up with the wet/dry. Do the dry test first! Then the wet...
Jumper

[Arctic Grayling]

Finally found a 12mm compression tester. here are the results. Ran the test with a cold engine as I had the tank off.  If it makes a big difference I will warm the engine first and redo.
Front dry = 156
Rear dry = 157
Front wet = 159
Rear wet = 172
Does this not suggest that there is a problem with the rear cylinder? As I mentioned in an earlier post the front cylinder seamed to be colder then the rear.
I will be out on Mt Goat hunt for a week starting Monday, so I will check back later.

Kevin

[Jumper]

Well... Compression seems to be up there... Did you check the fuel pressure?
Jumper

[Arctic Grayling]

Ran a fuel pressure test last night.
50 psi throughout the run test.
Started, let idle, ran up RPM's.  As engine warmed up it began to run rougher and rougher until it died.  Let set for a few minutes with the same results.  It only cuts out and quits if I'm into the throttle for a minute or two (warms up?), it will idle all night.  won't run smooth again unless I let it cool down for a few minutes first then it fires up and runs smooth again until I am back into the throttle for a couple of minutes.

[Jumper]

HMMMM...I'm kinda stumped...Is it possible to monitor fuel pressure while running the Engine. Maybe building up pressure and then bleeding off as your running it? Dunno if we are going down the right path with Fuel.... Maybe the IAC is sticking... Or slow moving... No... That's not it.. TPS? Throttle Position Sensor?  Fuel injectors clogged?... HMMM>>>
Jumper
 

[wytfut]

without the bike in front of me... this really gets to be a challenge... especially this particular issue....
I'm just shooting in the dark... but I remember Phil Marks telling me that when the engine speed sensor starts to go, but not quite... if you cool it down it'll run good. He had a bad one, and poured soda pop and water on it, as that all he had, away from home.... and it got him home...
Could this be the culprit?    I realize that not all engine speed sensors will do this, but Phil had heard it from someplace else before this happened....

Brucester...

[Arctic Grayling]

Hey! you might be on to somthing! The manual states that the resistance on the crank position sensor should be 522-588 @ 68F when I tested mine last night it was 275 @ 54F.  I'll warm the engine tonight after work if that will make a differance and retest it.

[wytfut]

as long as your X has been down.... I wish you luck with this.    I just threw it out there, doesn't make me a wizard..... hee hee hee

[Jumper]

Hey Bruce... Your talking about the "CPS" Crank Position Sensor, which triggers the spark not the
Road Speed Sensor, that triggers the Speedometer. Just pointing that out as I get confused by your accent...Your typing lends your self to have a "Knee Brass Key" accent! Hehehehe..
Jumper
 

[wytfut]

Ah the thing with me is I have my own lil language that makes things work in my itty bitty head...  some technical terms just really throw me off, so I make up my own....

which can be unfortunate.... translating could be very misleading. ...

Yeah, I'm refering to the crank position sensor...   which translates in my head engine speed sensor... probably not correct terminology... I'll try harder....

LOL

accent..... geez.... LOL

[Traveller]

Hi Kevin,

It seems that I get behind on the activity on the E-H chat board in the summer and fall every year and this one has been no different. So, I'm just now getting caught up on your ongoing battle with your bike.

In one of your last posts, you described what I believe is the original Throttle Body Bracket linking the front and rear cylinder heads together and originally supporting the Throttle Body itself. Check page 92, item 21 in the E-H Parts Book to confirm. If that is still on your bike, it may be creating an air leakage problem that would become more pronounced as the engine warms up.  Remove it and mount the Xman air cleaner backing plate with the spacers that came with that kit directly to the cylinder heads.

Give it a shot and let me know if I'm on the right track with this idea.

Peace and Happy Holidays,
Jamie Jones
Atlantic E-H, llc

PS. So there is no confusion I also emailed this idea to you.