Fuel problem - bike won't start

[5ehsx]

Thanks again for your quick answer; I installed a new motor portion, new pressure regulator, new filter, new corrugate and new O-rings, all coming from Jamie EH Atlantic (very patient with my phone calls!) and assembled in italy by a good HD guy, I trust him; and also I tested the new fuel pump in a bucket full of gasoline (!) and I couldn't see any leak.
Do you think there's a way to test the fuel pump itself, directly from a battery, without connecing to the bike? To be 100% sure about those 3.8 bar pressure.
I stand by waiting for my new crankshaft sensor and new temp sensor, not more than a week I hope, and I'm back to you.

[Donkey Hotey]

I took these pictures just now. Total time to test this pump was less than ten minutes. You really do need a pressure gauge to test this properly.

I don't want to knock your HD guy but, I have known lots of mechanics who don't understand fuel injection and make very common mistakes. Trust that he did the work properly but, verify by testing as shown below.

He may have connected the pump wires backward. He may not have understood where all the O-rings go. You just don't know. The computer does absolutely nothing with the pump except turn it on or off. It is on when the engine is running. That's all you need to verify electrically.


Disconnect the fuel line on the bottom of the tank.


Assemble the pressure gauge, barb fitting and rubber hose. Connect this to the metal fitting on the bottom of the gas tank. I didn't even use clamps. Friction was enough to hold the rubber hose in place.





Turn on the key. You should be able to hear the fuel pump and the gauge should immediately show pressure. This one got to three bar while the pump was running. After the priming time is over, the pump will stop and the pressure may drop some. It should not go to zero quickly. It should be able to hold pressure for a minute or more. When the engine is running, the pump runs continuously. The number you see while the pump is priming is the pressure you want to know. This bike has 3.0 bar of pressure when the pump is on. That's a little low but, acceptable. I rode this bike 470 miles on Saturday.

[5ehsx]

Thanks for your time!
It's exactly the test I did for a couple of weeks ago, and there was no pressure. As I said before I couldn't see any leak when I tested the pump in a bucket, so I THINK I can assume the O-rings are correctly set. (otherwise I could see gasoline spay out somewhere, right?)
I'm thinking to take the pump out and test again in a bucket, but how can I see if the wires are connected backward?

[Donkey Hotey]

I misunderstood when you said you checked it for leaks in the bucket because you were also asking about how to connect it. I thought maybe you checked it with compressed air or something. If you heard the pump running and there was zero pressure, that is your problem.

A picture is easier than explaining. Here is the proper connection:

[5ehsx]

So, I tested again and same effect: the pump goes on but zero pressure. I'm taking it out and check, but just a detail: under the time the bike was perfectly working it happened some times I had to take off the fuel tank and I remember I had barely some stings gasoline when I disconnected the fuel hose, but now it leaks quite well all the time, so it could empy the tank in a couple of minuts; is that some advice of what is happening to the fuel pump or pressure regulator (both new)?

[Donkey Hotey]

...but now it leaks quite well all the time, so it could empy the tank in a couple of minuts; is that some advice of what is happening to the fuel pump or pressure regulator (both new)?

I'm going to retype what I think you said: you are telling us that when you disconnect the fuel hose, gasoline will drain out of the tank, just like a standard gas tank (without a fuel pump)? The fuel pump should block that from happening.


The only way that could happen is if there is a huge leak between the pump and the regulator, or the plastic hose is badly leaking. If the plastic hose is properly connected and crimped at both ends, the only other place to let fuel in like that is 0-rings are missing.

Are you comfortable removing the metal clips holding the regulator to the body? A screwdriver under each clip and a slight twist is all it takes to release each of the fingers. Take off the retaining clip and pull the regulator out. You should see the two O rings I showed earlier and they should be a snug fit. You may need to oil them to put it back together.



After that, only the two o-rings on the snout of the pump remain. You have to remove the circlips to slide that off the assembly. Something is leaking very badly.

We are going to figure this out and get your bike running again.   

[5ehsx]

All correct, I'm going to do before the week end and I'm back.

[wytfut]

I too believe it to be pure coincidental engine fired when pressed against shrader valve.
Most likely engine ran when changing AIC while moving tank into odd positions, thus pressuring fuel pump to work. For a short period of time anyway.

Has to be somewhere in the pump as Greg says.... I'd say most likely the "O" rings..... but could in reality be any part of the fuel pump system. That pressure regulator, is as simple as it gets, but it could be catastrophic failure due to big chunks of crap floating thru it.....

[5ehsx]

Here I am with my Deadwood running! The larger O-ring of the pressure regulator worked very bad, I changed and everything worked fine.

The shrader valve fooled me pretty good for a couple of weeks, but now I'm looking forward to good ride times.

Many thanks to all who helped, specially "Donkey Hotey" who was generous of advice, pictures and of course time!

Ride safe.

Luca
EH#1700

[Donkey Hotey]

That is excellent news. Very glad to hear you got it running again.

[Berlin Bob]

Greg...you da man