EH tools

[2CoolWheels]

Hey Moderators,
   I'm looking for some EH special tools, know where there are any for sale? I currently need the torsional compensator socket (Kent Moore number 6999-0041A). I know the Pioneer chapter has loan tools, but I'd like to purchase my own. It's worth it to me to save shipping time and expense.
   Also, when I removed the crank bolt that holds the rotor on, some threads came with it.....Please tell me I don't have to helicoil the crankshaft!
   And in the step-by-step for cassette removal, it mentions an oil feed orifice in the end of the rotor bolt. The orifice in this bolt appears to be a pressed in insert, and not a removable hex plug as suggested in the instructions. Should I drill this orifice out a size or two larger to increase oil flow to the stator?
    Mike

[Donkey Hotey]

You could use a pin spanner. You can't 'torque' to a value but, you can use the armstrong torque method if you're confident in the 'calibration' of your arm.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pin-spanner-wrenches/=iqmf04

[2CoolWheels]

Good suggestion Greg, I'll see if I can find one big enough.

[Donkey Hotey]

Do you already have it apart? Do you know the pin diameters? They look 1/4"-ish from the photos in the trans removal guide. You could also make your own with a couple of ground dowel pins (McMaster) and a bar of steel with mating holes drilled in the right place.

[2CoolWheels]

Yep, apart. I tried a couple of grade 8 bolts (5/16 dia.) and a pry bar. The bolts just bent..... The holes are just under 3 inches apart.
I'll get some accurate dimensions and have a friend fabricate something for me, I don't have any decent welding equipment.
Thanks for the suggestions, they are  appreciated!

[Donkey Hotey]

Well, one of those pin-spanners in the McMaster catalog is 5/16" diameter pins for $33.

I could see grade 8 bolts bending if they are long enough and the bar tweaks them.

You could buy a pack of 5/16" dowel pins for the job (also McMaster). Measure those holes with a caliper though and find out if the hole is slightly oversized or not. Dowel pins are usually very slighly oversize for a snug or press fit in a 5/16" (exactly) hole. You can also buy undersize pins if the holes are right on the money.

Did you already get it apart and need it for reassembly or are you stuck?

Edit: what did you do to get the rotor off? Did you make that puller?

[2CoolWheels]

I found that one of my automotive AC compressor clutch removal tools was the same diameter and thread pitch as the rotor, but not deep enough to press it off. I found a washer of the correct diameter and used it as a shim, giving me just enough length to press the rotor off.

[Donkey Hotey]

Any idea what brand/model of car that compressor clutch tool is for? That might be a good tip for somebody in the future.

Edit 2: I've now measured three times, with a micrometer and I can't figure out what the actual design dimension was supposed to be. Manufacturing tolerances are all over the map. If I measure each edge of the square versus diagonally (bolt circle diameter) then trig-check my answers, I get answers all over the map.

If I were going to make one, I'd go with:

'undersize' 5/16 dowels

A 2.613" dowel circle (on center), x 4 dowels

To use those dimensions or that method with a manual mill would to require a rotary table and careful setup. Since not everybody has a rotary table, the closest 'square' dimensions I can come up with would be:

1.848" square (on center of the dowels)

If I trig those two answers to check one against the other, they don't match. They must all be within the manufacturing tolerance of the holes. I'll try it one more time in Solidworks to figure out proper, true-position of the holes.

You might start with a giganto iron sewer pipe plug (3" or larger). They probably already have a relief cut inside to clear the taper on that compensator. It would be cake for a friend with a mill to drill the four holes and tap the pins in. There may also be enough meat left on the iron to cut a hex onto the square head. That would give you a place to put a socket for precise torquing.

[wytfut]

Your pin spanner is a good idea for those that don't have the EH tool.... I have it, if you want to borrow... possibly you know a machinest that can make that up? ... your choice...

those threads coming out.... scares me a bit.... myself?, I'd fix it. But I don't know how much threads you lost...

that orfice .... some are a "foil" like material...not much to it... and just pops out.... I read somewhere in this past year (I'm old and can't remember crap anymore) that it really isn't all that important to remove if you have the proper tune and a fan assisted oil cooler, as the removal of that part is miniscule in actual differences. I believe when that idea came around, there were a lot of ideas being pushed to help with our heat problems.... and the oil coolers (fan assist) were brand new in the game if existed at all.   Several old tricks back then, which all helped (we needed any help at all) .   I.E. beehive oil filter covers made from billet, spacing the oil filter cover so air could get behind, disconnecting the O2 sensor, etc. ....

I'm picking up that you don't want to releave the exhaust... which is fine. But I recommend you remove at least one of the baffles from each of those OEM mufflers... just to help releave the back pressure of the heat escaping. It does help....

[2CoolWheels]

Greg,
   To answer your question, the AC tool was one of two that came as a set which covers 90% of the automotive applications at the time (80's and 90's) that I was a dealership mechanic. I think that particular one fit the Ford applications of the era.
   I'm going to order an adjustable spanner on eBay for around $35. It's cheap enough that if it doesn't work, I'm not out much. I'll let you know how it works out.

Bruce,
   To your suggestion, 741 is running slash cuts, very loud. In fact, too loud for my taste. I don't want to be the annoying biker neighbor that wakes the working folks. If anything, I'm looking to quiet them down a bit. I do have the stock mufflers that were included with the purchase of 901, but I would have to have them powder coated to match the black exhaust on 741. I will, however, be adding another oil cooler to 741.
    There were probably a half dozen threads that came out with the rotor bolt. I think I'll chance it without the heli-coil. If my charging system goes out, I'll know who to suspect and shut it down right away. Have you heard of this occurring with other people?
  Mike

[wytfut]

Mike...
    I haven't heard of this... or seen it myself.... doesn't mean it doesn't happen...
    As I'm not there to witness... it makes me wonder from way over here, if it wasn't cross threaded when placed....   

    I forgot about the slash cuts Mike... my apologies... and yeah they are loud.  The trick on bringing down some of the decibels on those slash cuts was to buy a sink drain strainer.... and screw it down where the exhaust dumps out....   it looks a bit funky if a guy was to really look for it... but works fairly well. That set of slash cuts that I have on my shelf, have the sink drain strainer mounted inside....

[Jumper]

Of course.. You could call Kent-Moore and see if they have any E-H tools left over that they might want to sell..
Jumper

[2CoolWheels]

Hi Jumper,
   I did go to their web site, no luck. You're right, however, calling might be better.

[AtlanticMarty]

We have an owner that makes them for us.  Beautifully made from steel.  Should last a long time.  Since we use them all the time in the shop we have literally worn out three compensator wrenches.  He would probably prefer to make several at once so it anyone is interested get in touch with me.  The price for the wrench and rotor bolt tool is $270.00.

Marty
Atlantic E H

[2CoolWheels]

Marty,
   Thanks for the response. I'll consider purchasing the tools you suggest if my home made tool doesn't hold up. I'm not doing this all the time like you guys, so my demands on the tooling isn't as intense.

Greg,
   I came up with an inexpensive option, probably good for a few uses. I purchased a spanner wrench on eBay for $45. However, the compensator is recessed far enough into the engine case that I had to come up with longer pins (and the pins that came with it weren't the right diameter anyway). I cut a 3/8" allen wrench into two 2" pieces. Since I don't have a lathe, I used a drill to hold the pieces and "machined" them with my bench grinder. Attached are pictures of the results, and the tool worked great. How's that for "shade tree"?
   Mike