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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: Batteries and battery tenders
« Last post by wytfut on June 06, 2025, 08:59:32 AM »Yup..... mine is a AGM YUASA
Recent Posts
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: belt drive
« Last post by wytfut on June 06, 2025, 08:57:37 AM »Nothing wrong with bringing an old thread a new breath of fresh air. This topic I'm sure will come up again, just like all the oldies from the beginning.
With my "chirping" belt, for a long time, I could put a dab of silicon grease on it, and it'd quit chirping for a few hundred miles. My belt I think was unusual, as where all the kevlar string met/seam, the belt had a tad bit "S" shaped. Every round that belt would make it would chirp there.
Humorous side note: my belt chirpped so bad, that when I'd ride in a group, barn swallows would come out of nowhere and dive bomb me going down the highway. Every one in the group would see it and comment.... weird
I couldn't stand it no more, and ended up replacing my belt with the HD belt, and I haven't had any issue since.
When tightening belts on X's, I start usually too loose (so much so it'll jump sprocket), and I go back to shop and tweek it tighter. Until it doesn't jump. I know there are folks that will comment that its too loose this way. But this works for me.
Religiously from the beginning, I was using the clothes hanger trick to measure alignment from the swing arm bushing. Phil Marks (Pa), told me just roll that rear tire on my lift and see if it walks one way or the other. Roll the tire forwards and backwards and see if it walks one side or the other. Adjust accordingly.
I didn't realize that each X out there maybe just a little bit different, especially trying to align belt.... What Phil said made sense, and its not how'd I do it.
Another great idea that Phil came up with was.... "if it chirps, try turning the belt around". He had one that was a chirper, ... turned it around, chirping was gone.
So there's a couple of ideas to try.... Belts are expensive, but the chirping really does get old. Funny how some will just drive you crazy, and other X's nothing.
Bruce
With my "chirping" belt, for a long time, I could put a dab of silicon grease on it, and it'd quit chirping for a few hundred miles. My belt I think was unusual, as where all the kevlar string met/seam, the belt had a tad bit "S" shaped. Every round that belt would make it would chirp there.
Humorous side note: my belt chirpped so bad, that when I'd ride in a group, barn swallows would come out of nowhere and dive bomb me going down the highway. Every one in the group would see it and comment.... weird
I couldn't stand it no more, and ended up replacing my belt with the HD belt, and I haven't had any issue since.
When tightening belts on X's, I start usually too loose (so much so it'll jump sprocket), and I go back to shop and tweek it tighter. Until it doesn't jump. I know there are folks that will comment that its too loose this way. But this works for me.
Religiously from the beginning, I was using the clothes hanger trick to measure alignment from the swing arm bushing. Phil Marks (Pa), told me just roll that rear tire on my lift and see if it walks one way or the other. Roll the tire forwards and backwards and see if it walks one side or the other. Adjust accordingly.
I didn't realize that each X out there maybe just a little bit different, especially trying to align belt.... What Phil said made sense, and its not how'd I do it.
Another great idea that Phil came up with was.... "if it chirps, try turning the belt around". He had one that was a chirper, ... turned it around, chirping was gone.
So there's a couple of ideas to try.... Belts are expensive, but the chirping really does get old. Funny how some will just drive you crazy, and other X's nothing.
Bruce
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: belt drive
« Last post by larryb8415 on June 04, 2025, 05:11:50 PM »This is a VERY old thread, but I'm going to pull it anyway.
I have the 'chirping' problem as well. I've checked the tension, seems to be set correctly, I've checked the alignment, that also seems ok... though from inspection to inspection, it travels a bit on the rear sprocket. Not only on speed up and slow down, but also under load at steady speed I can hear it.
All this being said, I believe this is the same belt that came with the bike when I bought it back in the summer of '99 (or the late 1900's as my kids would say). So it very well could just be old... BUT here is my question:
Is there anything else I should check? AND What is the consensus about spraying silicone lubricant on the belt?
I have the 'chirping' problem as well. I've checked the tension, seems to be set correctly, I've checked the alignment, that also seems ok... though from inspection to inspection, it travels a bit on the rear sprocket. Not only on speed up and slow down, but also under load at steady speed I can hear it.
All this being said, I believe this is the same belt that came with the bike when I bought it back in the summer of '99 (or the late 1900's as my kids would say). So it very well could just be old... BUT here is my question:
Is there anything else I should check? AND What is the consensus about spraying silicone lubricant on the belt?
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: Batteries and battery tenders
« Last post by acollins45@hotmail.com on June 04, 2025, 03:51:25 PM »Thanks for the input. I'm using AGM now, and was looking at Yuasa. They are very popular in Europe, I had 1 in a Vulcan I had when I lived in North Macedonia.
AC
AC
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: Batteries and battery tenders
« Last post by Donkey Hotey on June 04, 2025, 12:09:05 PM »There seems to be a bunch of them out there. I've seen those terminals on other sizes in the past. My first worry was always vibration. Would that terminal style break off? Then Harvey's bike shorted out. I avoid them.
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: Batteries and battery tenders
« Last post by wytfut on June 04, 2025, 08:53:27 AM »YIKES!!!
I have not seen these. Will be on the look out... china built crap?
I have not seen these. Will be on the look out... china built crap?
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: Batteries and battery tenders
« Last post by Donkey Hotey on June 03, 2025, 09:57:24 PM »Nothing to really add with regard to battery brands. I'm always surprised to hear these tales of batteries lasting more than 3 or 4 years.
The thing I want to warn everyone about:
Some batteries out there have got sheet metal terminals on them. I have personally never bought one of them. Doug Hoffelt and I were recently helping Harvey Jackson with 1526. He has one of these batteries. It's very dangerous on our bikes.
As it is, this type of battery can and will short against the battery cover. I burned my finger so badly that it took weeks to heal. I was pushing the battery cover into place. It contacted the positive terminal and as soon as the battery strap screw grounded, the cover heated up instantly and burned my thumb. We had to find a rubber pad to wrap the side of the battery. I would have personally bought a new battery. No way I'd have one of these on my Super Xs.
If you look closely at these two terminals, the cast lead terminal on the left is what we had on the original battery. Most compatible batteries are made this way.
There are some low-cost options available on eBay, Amazon, etc, that have the sheet metal terminal style shown on the right. If you look closely, that vertical face of that sheet terminal is able to contact the battery cover. On Harvey's battery, it even stuck out just a little further. A very, very bad combination.
The thing I want to warn everyone about:
Some batteries out there have got sheet metal terminals on them. I have personally never bought one of them. Doug Hoffelt and I were recently helping Harvey Jackson with 1526. He has one of these batteries. It's very dangerous on our bikes.
As it is, this type of battery can and will short against the battery cover. I burned my finger so badly that it took weeks to heal. I was pushing the battery cover into place. It contacted the positive terminal and as soon as the battery strap screw grounded, the cover heated up instantly and burned my thumb. We had to find a rubber pad to wrap the side of the battery. I would have personally bought a new battery. No way I'd have one of these on my Super Xs.
If you look closely at these two terminals, the cast lead terminal on the left is what we had on the original battery. Most compatible batteries are made this way.
There are some low-cost options available on eBay, Amazon, etc, that have the sheet metal terminal style shown on the right. If you look closely, that vertical face of that sheet terminal is able to contact the battery cover. On Harvey's battery, it even stuck out just a little further. A very, very bad combination.
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: Battery/electrical issue
« Last post by wytfut on June 03, 2025, 08:27:10 AM »Yes they are a pain in the butt OEM set. Mike Seastrom at ehparts.net should have the updated cables. A lot of owners only do the positive. I did both. Still not handy but much easier.
We used to have a DWS, and the whole inside cover was smoked from battery touches. Long before we owned it.
I also came across a R/O I worked on from New Mexico, that had a positive battery cable from hell. It was way too long (kind of like goldie locks, too short, too long), and took me the first time 45 minutes to get the cover back on....
I forgot to mention initially, make sure you got that red positive battery cable boot on there too. Thats a given.
Crossing my fingers you don't have a "ghost short" running thru your scoot. Trying to keep this simple at this point.
Bruce
We used to have a DWS, and the whole inside cover was smoked from battery touches. Long before we owned it.
I also came across a R/O I worked on from New Mexico, that had a positive battery cable from hell. It was way too long (kind of like goldie locks, too short, too long), and took me the first time 45 minutes to get the cover back on....
I forgot to mention initially, make sure you got that red positive battery cable boot on there too. Thats a given.
Crossing my fingers you don't have a "ghost short" running thru your scoot. Trying to keep this simple at this point.
Bruce
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Technical Resource Discussion / Re: Batteries and battery tenders
« Last post by wytfut on June 03, 2025, 08:19:19 AM »the battery listed here on the cross reference page is the OEM. And quite frankly a large portion of owners have had very good luck with them. Although far from the norm, Dennis Bennett had way over 15 years on his OEM, before it gave up the ghost. This would be a good place here and now for posters to speak up with their favorite.
https://xhmotorcycles.com/pages/tech/downloads.html
I've personally shopped around and currently am using a Yuasa AGM. There are distinct advantages and disadvantages to AGM, and thought I'd give Yuasa's product a try.
To keep things simple, and double checked.... run your X with a volt meter on the battery. I know you know about our stator issue, may want to check out it's output. When idling it should be charging way over 12 volts (I'm comfortable with 13.4+).
When our stators start going bad, they'll can still charge over 12 volts.... which may/may not get you going at the next start.
We'll see Greg Cifu pop in here I'm sure, with his expertise too... soon
Bruce
https://xhmotorcycles.com/pages/tech/downloads.html
I've personally shopped around and currently am using a Yuasa AGM. There are distinct advantages and disadvantages to AGM, and thought I'd give Yuasa's product a try.
To keep things simple, and double checked.... run your X with a volt meter on the battery. I know you know about our stator issue, may want to check out it's output. When idling it should be charging way over 12 volts (I'm comfortable with 13.4+).
When our stators start going bad, they'll can still charge over 12 volts.... which may/may not get you going at the next start.
We'll see Greg Cifu pop in here I'm sure, with his expertise too... soon
Bruce
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Technical Resource Discussion / Batteries and battery tenders
« Last post by acollins45@hotmail.com on June 02, 2025, 01:28:48 PM »Is there any specific battery brand that people have had good luck with? I used to think Interstate was the best, but now I'm not sure there is a nickels worth of difference in any of them. They all seem to die after 3 years or so.
Same question with battery tenders. I have a box full of dead ones from just about any brand you can name, at all price ranges. I think they are programmed to crap out at about 18 months. The interstate guy told me unplugging them once a month for 30 seconds or so was the key, but I didn't see that helped at all.
Thanks,
Allan Collins
Same question with battery tenders. I have a box full of dead ones from just about any brand you can name, at all price ranges. I think they are programmed to crap out at about 18 months. The interstate guy told me unplugging them once a month for 30 seconds or so was the key, but I didn't see that helped at all.
Thanks,
Allan Collins