Stavos kit or ignition switch already updated with stavos kit

[wytfut]

Stavos kit or ignition switch already updated with stavos kit

Had an ignition switch grenade.
Looking for the stavos ignition update kit or an ignition switch that has already had the kit installed

More Information

[Donkey Hotey]

OK Bruce, I've read your inquiries and comments over on FB (I don't do FB--it's the devil). You want it to be stock. I am in your situation: my Deadwood broke it's switch back in October. It still "works" in that I can turn it on and off and it locks. With that said, it also switches itself off with no warning because the butterfly is what provided the clicks to hold the switch in place.

Can it just LOOK stock or do you absolutely want it to OPERATE stock? By that, I'm asking if you would settle for a butterfly-looking escutcheon that didn't actually rotate? It would have a lock in the center. It would be center-off and still rotate back for Acc and forward for Ign. The only thing is, you'd have a key always in the lock when it's running and the butterfly would no longer do its thing. Looking at it, only the most trained eye would spot the difference (much like the Stavos kit).

That kind of kit would probably be in the $200-300 range, just because of all the CNC machine time to whittle out the sculpted shape on the butterfly, the cost of the switch, connector and chroming.

Optionally: would it be acceptable if the escutcheon just fit into the hole in the stock housing (no alterations required) but, would do away with the butterfly shape? This would probably be about $100 less, simply because there is so much less machine time. The escutcheon would be a skirted shape that would mimic the center shape of the butterfly but, wouldn't include the tabs/wings. So you'd have a fixed lock assembly, it would look appropriate for the housing but, the butterfly tabs would be gone.

Everything is worked out in my head and I have two of the chosen switches (one barrel and one flat key). What I don't know is if these switches will withstand the vibration of being on a bike. Without some testing of my own, I don't want to just turn you loose with an unproven design.

The simple version of the escutcheon could be banged out in an evening (without chrome). Reverse engineering the butterfly shaped version is going to take some time. There are a lot of curves and draft angles on it to make it casting-friendly and that makes it a tough shape to model. I have to invest in the proper crimper set (a few hundred $$) and buy some pins and backshells.

How desperate are you to solve this right now?

[wytfut]

Wow Greg....
Simply wow...
We r in no hurry at all. If anything we may toss a toggle under tank until we figure out what is the best option with attained goals..
I have a nephew that has been building items with a 3d scanner and printer...  That maybe an option too..  (quite marvelous tech that is)...
I'd love to see some more discussion here on this.... In the meantime I'm gonna talk to both nephews (1 with printer, other with X and grenaded switch)

[Donkey Hotey]

The issue so far has been trying to keep the costs in check because people already complain about the cost of the previous options.

If money were no object, I could even produce a replacement butterfly with a completely new electrical switch. The problem there is that it gets into needing a new lock cylinder, sourcing the switches AND making it something the average owner could install with common hand tools. And it would be even more money. Probably not going to happen. I gave it a heck of a try to find suitable lock cylinders and came up dry.

From doing research on this, I see that some have had issues with the physical switch unit as well as the lock problems. That and the challenge of owners swapping lock parts to the new butterfly is why I backed away from that solution.

I even played with doing a keyless system. You'd walk up to the bike, switch on the butterfly and go. The lock bore would no longer exist and would become part of the butterfly design. A fob in your pocket would be your security. Again: costs. Before it was done, that would be at least $400 and would require more connections than just the single 3-pin plug. I just don't see many owners wanting it.

[Jumper]

Hey Greg! Good seeing you in Las Vegas... Are you going to Laughlin in a few weeks? Got about 5-6 West Coast Xer's in so far... Tell any Xer's you know!!
Jumper

[wytfut]

Everything is done right here...
Speak up Larsnut

[franknsr]

Given that Larsonut likes to post at 3 am, I'm guessing he or she is from a very different time zone, or is a bot.

Getting back to the subject at hand, I for one would be very interested in replacement switch assembly with the big butterfly switch but no key, and a fob to activate it. Don't care if it is 3D printed and chrome painted or cast aluminum, but if anyone figures out how to make this please let me know and I'll send you a deposit.

[wytfut]

Frank...
I've been busy with this subject this subject. And with some help have some nice prototypes started.
It's going to take some more time and stay tuned..

[mzender]

Not to bump this bread two years later but I just recently ran into the same issue. I was lucky enough to catch it out of the corner of my eye and hear it hit the road so I swung around and found the severed butterfly lying next to a storm drain. What did you guys come up with a fix for this? And would it be feasible to weld the two back together??

[wytfut]

As for welding ... I'm no welder or for that a matter a metalergist by any means.
But... I don't know that pot metal can be welded very easily. If you have someone that'd try, maybe go for it, what'd do you have loose.
As for the 2 different projects in conversation above, Greg was busy with work, but this spring thought he'd possibly get to have some time devoted.
My 3d project stalled, once I couldn't find and plating outfits that would chrome plate a small batch. From there Dan H. Was hopeful to doing some research on that, and going CNC instead of 3 D. 
That's the latest I know of.

[mzender]

Shucks, I really don’t want to have to modify an aftermarket ignition switch in and lose the stock appearance. I may just have to get the switch back together one way or another and hide a temporary switch behind the bracket for now. Anyone know off the top of your head which two wires I need to be wired into a simple on/off switch without having to pin it out and test?

[Donkey Hotey]

You have to connect both wires to power to make that work.

• Orange/Blue is the hot wire.
• Red/White feeds all the lighting and accessories.
• Red/Gray feeds ignition and fuel system.