Welcome to our newest member and owner, RoachCliff. I saw your request for help over on Bookface but, since lots of the technical people won't participate on that platform, I'll try to answer your questions here. I've hijacked and reposted your pictures below.
Your fuel pump might be a goner but, not that entire assembly. To be clear: there are replacement pumps available that you'll then assemble onto that structure. The only reason I suspect it might not be saveable is the rust on everything. That has probably extended to the steel parts inside, including the check valve ball and motor shafts. If it was just gummed up from non-use, it might have been fine.
It's also been out of the bike at least once. The safety wire you see holding that portion of the fuel transfer line against the plastic regulator body was one of the minor after-factory fixes all of us needed to do. Safety wire works.
Others use a zip tie for the same purpose. Fixing this post: do not use zip ties inside the fuel tank. I just had one fail due to softening in the gasoline. It took less than 12 months. Safety wire or maybe a hose clamp only. The idea is to hold that 90 degree fitting in place so it doesn't pop off from pressure. It's not much force but, it needs suspenders to keep its pants from falling down.
The black strainer you have at the bottom is the factory one and as far as I know, they aren't available. That's why everyone uses the later, rectangular sock that Atlantic sells. The rectangular sock also appears to be a finer mesh. Since this is the only fuel filtration on our bikes, it's a good choice even though it looks kind of mickey mouse.
The rust on the pressure regulator concerns me. Again: that means the internal valve parts are probably also that rusty and will leak. I would replace it. Atlantic has them. I believe EHPARTS.NET has them. Probably around $50. You carefully pry the spring clips off the plastic body and it pops off.
There are two o-rings hiding between that regulator and the plastic body. They are notorious for cracking, leaking and causing all kinds of running issues from low fuel pressure. They need to be replaced.
That's two o-rings.Between the plastic body and the fuel pump snout, there are two more o-rings (same size as one-another). They also need to be replaced.
That's a total of four o-rings.You should probably replace the big one sealing the assembly to the fuel tank as long as it's out.
That makes a total of five o-rings.The plastic corrugated transfer hose looks to be original. They crack and fail. When they do the bike stops in its tracks. I've had two fail this way and do the tow truck ride of shame. Before you go removing it, you might measure the brass nipple diameter with a caliper. Most bikes have an 8mm hose which is commonly available. One of mine has a 7mm hose. That one is very hard to get. I had to order ten of them from China. There was literally no other source. If you need a 7mm let me know.
You would need to cut and release those Oetiker clamps to get it off. For reassembly, original Oetiker clamps can be purchased. Or you can use normal screw clamps. I prefer the Oetiker for originality but, you need the proper crimper tool to set them.
Atlantic EH can rebuild that assembly. Berlin Bob will be along shortly. He also rebuilds them. You can also do it yourself from the information above. If you do, DO NOT DAMAGE THAT PLASTIC REGULATOR BODY. That's the one thing that is hard to replace. Be very gentle removing the Oetiker clamp from that end.
Welcome aboard. We want to see pics of the bike.
