Stator?

[rt66john]

For about the last month, every time I start 2016, the battery light will come on, but not until I push the starter button. 

The light will go off after I pull away and get the revs up a bit and stay off until the next time I push the starter button.  The bike runs fine otherwise.

Even though these symptoms kind of sound like a battery heading south, I wanted to run through the charging system checks to be sure.  Last night, I ran through the checks I could perform without starting the engine (it was after 10 and I like my neighbors  )  Here's what I recorded:

Lugs on battery are tight.
Unloaded voltage: 12.05
Semi-Loaded voltage (ignition on, cut off (kill) switch on, fog lights on): 11.54
Leakage test: < 1mA
Resistance between legs of stator 1.1-1.2 ohms - Standard is < 0.5

The battery voltage does seem low, but I'm most concerned with the resistance.  That's more than twice the resistance specified in the book.  Ugh.

[wytfut]

Heres 2 tests to narrow down...
First test charging/voltage reg....
         Put volt meter to DC volts....
         Start bike and run til lite goes out...
         Place leads on battery posts while running....     Should be over 13 volts

If not.... Continue to second test to determine whether volt reg or stator. If it does test to over 13 volts .... Need a battery.

Second test.....
         Pull apart lead to volt reglator from stator.
         Put volt meter to AC volts.
         Start bike and rev over idle.
         You have 3 slots in lead.... Put your volt meter leads into end going to stator..... Any 2 it doesnt matter, plus you'll check the other one before you are done... Any and all slots in that end to the stator have to test on volt meter 65 volts AC...
   
If they all do then you need a volt regulator. If they don't you need to replace stator.

Volt regulator it just above starter.... Square shaped with louvers for heat dissapation.

I realize this is wordy... But believe me these 2 test are very simple.

Replacing stator sounds scary but actually quick and simple. And ill happily walk you thru that if thats what it tests out to be...
Believe it or not... Just did another one in the field at the cannonball.... Got it done in an hour.

Did i do good?
Bruce

[Jumper]

Bruce... you always do good!

Jumper

 

[rt66john]

Thanks, guys!

Those exact tests are scheduled for this evening.  I didn't do them Monday because my neighbor's bedroom window is next to my driveway.  I didn't think they'd like to hear the sweet song of the X-Twin engine at 3000rpm through punched out stock pipes at 10:15pm. 

[deadwoodsp]

Bruce you did a damn fine job.  Now I need to get my wiring harness put back where it needs to go

Dennis

[wytfut]

So im guessing it didnt leak on the way home?     Cool!

You and your smartass harness....!

[rt66john]

Tonight's results:

Exhaust pipes in a running engine are hot.

Volts after charging overnight 12.54, not running.
Bat light on at start button push.
Volts at 2500-3000 rpm 12.6
Stator legs
31v ac
4v ac
7v ac

Looks like I have a Krispy Kreme stator.

[wytfut]

Agreed....
just for my personal curiosity. ...
what Miles are on your X......
and what was the miles when the fan assist oil cooler put on....
lastly what kind of driving is your X. Exposed to?..... city .... hiway.... combination...

Are You going to replace or are you going to hire out?
Bruce

[rt66john]

Too bad it's a lesson I've learned twice now.... 

I have about 75xx on her right now.  I bought her with 3 miles on the clock

I've had a big cooler (like John Jones sells) since new, but only added a fan this year.

The bike has had a new tune with SuperXtune since about 200 miles.

I usually ride a mix of suburban Chi-town traffic and back road jaunts with a bit of interstate thrown in.

Now, a confession.  I didn't always use full synthetic oil and I think it's coming back to haunt me.  I always used m/c oil, but just last year switched to full synthetic Mobile 1 m/c oil.  I know the conventional oil took a beating more than once when I got stuck in traffic on hot July days both here and at the 2012 rally in MN.

I'll do this job myself.  While I'm at it, I may as well pull the trans to have Atlantic EH work their magic on it.  No sense taking the side cover off twice.

A few years ago, I split the cases on a 1500 Goldwing to fix the 4th gear issue some of them have.  This job looks like the proverbial walk in the park compared to that.   

[deadwoodsp]

Bruce,

Not a drip anywhere on the primary.  Running good!

Thanks again.

Dennis

[wytfut]

John....
I cannot admonish you for doing anything wrong with your X.... I cannot do it. It took me close to 10 years to get all the updates done on my X.
And still one I haven't done, as I don't think its needed.....
You do what you can afford and hope for the best.

You are correct some of the things that your X has been thru wasn't good....    but we do what we gotta do...

Ok.... I'm not going to need to go step by step with you on the stator removal/replacement, if you are going to pull the tranny for its update....
those picture step by step  instructions are easy enough to find, and work very well....   I used them my first tranny removal.
Once you get that primary off.... the stator is sitting right there in front of your face which will be pretty much explanatory.
I don't know if you have a stand/jack/lift  to put your X on.... for the stator replacement, a good friend will work to sit on the bike.... but pulling the tranny maybe a bit long for a buddy to sit still. it can be done...

Also in the step by step pictures of the tranny removal.... if you don't have to.... don't unhook the clutch line (bottom side of primary) if you don't have to. Bleeding our clutches with a whole lot of luck can be just a matter of minutes, but normally is a headache even with a miti vac. .... leave that hose/line on the primary if you can....

any other questions when you get that far.... don't hesitate to call/email/ or show up here....

Bruce 

[2CoolWheels]

Another important note: Do NOT remove the orifice from the crankshaft bolt. The step by step says to remove it for greater oil flow to the stator, but according to Jamie and Marty, that creates even greater problems.

[rt66john]

I showed this pic to a friend.  He suggested it is done on this side and needs to be flipped.

[wytfut]

In a simple guys terms (me)... its a 3 phase system. Flipping it wont fix anything...  or am I being gullible here?

[rt66john]

or am I being gullible here?

 

The joke made sense when I wrote it. My buddy is a gear-head, like us. I sent the pic to him and said "I don't like my steak, or my stator, well done".