My simple switch fix

[enginesludge]

This is my first post. I recently purchased EH1175 and just learning about some of the idiosyncricies of these machines. This is not my main bike, but; I do hope to get it sufficiency road worth to take occasional carefree rides.  Unfortunately low mileage does not provide the confidence that addition or at least verification of certain upgrades would.

First project, was an ignition switch that provides a reliable on/off. I was vry lucky to get help from profwhb in the way of a spare switch housing. This let me experiment with an idea and not mess up my semi functional all original switch.  Thank you profwhb!

I machined a couple washers on my old South bend bench lathe and setup a Custom Chrome (internet junk quality with a capital J) ignition switch. It works, looks good and a standard part that is easily replaced if needed.

The threaded barrel is std 3/4 inch and there are two shoulders. The first shoulder will just jam fit nice into the housing. The 2nd shoulder rests against the large inner washer. The 3/4 barrel fit in the out washer. That out washer might better be made from stainless. Home depot sells stainless that can be machined. I used copper, because I had it and it is soft. Protection of any original EH parts is a priority for me.

I decided against using the Harley switch because it would 1. Alter the housing and 2. I don't trust myself not to mess it up.

If I can attach photos,  I will.

[2CoolWheels]

   Looks really good, and it kept the switch housing in tact. Jamie and Marty have a similar set up as well.
   I, too, try not to damage or modify OE parts if I can help it. However, when it came to my ignition switch, I really wanted a switch that I could take the key out of while riding, and the cylinder is protected from the elements with a hinged cover. So I took a chance and had the housing machined anyway.
  It's unfortunate that the company, equipment, and people who know these locks are gone. I now have to carry two keys for each of my bikes....one for the ignition and one for the fork lock. Such is the life of an Xer.........

[wytfut]

Well done!!

[enginesludge]

I think your way came out better than mine. I purchased a Harley switch.  Reason 2 more than 1, I took a simple way out. maybe later.

I plan to someday try and repair the other switch. I have been warned, disassemble can be tricky. I wonder if that can be gutted out and a switch setup behind with EH key& lever in front ? My key still works, the switch or contacts seem to be floating around.

I spoke at length with Marty at Atlantic. We are very fortune to have such a resource. They already remapped the EFI for former owner. I was told it made a world difference.

This forum is another great resource with shared experience and all manuals in pdf.  I am not even close to reading the pdf's.  And I forget stuff. Like exactly how to check the oil.

Next issue to address is the transmission. I guess. I am not looking forward to that. It is too bad no one ever posted a step by step with pics. Or a you tube. I did read the pdf on that and it is not very clear. Another 5 or 10 readings and I may get up the nerve.

[2CoolWheels]

  Don't be scared,    the transmission cassette removal is not that bad if you are mechanically inclined. The step by step on this site is quite helpful:
 http://www.excelsior-henderson.com/pages/tech/pdf/EH_Transmission_Removal_Guide_X.pdf
 
  You'll need a couple of special tools however. I found that an automobile A/C clutch removal tool along with a washer works to remove the alternator rotor (step 7.1). I made a tool from a spanner wrench to remove the torsional compensator (step 8.1). The Pioneer Chapter in Minn has the factory tools available for loan to members as well.
  IMPORTANT: do NOT remove the oil plug described in step 6 of the procedure. Jamie can elaborate on this if needed, but the bottom line is that increasing oil flow to the stator, decreases oil flow to crucial internal engine components.

[jeffmartinaz]

Hey everyone, for the transmission removal tools, Marty at Atlantic said if you have them do the upgrade they'll send you the tools to use for the removal. I'll bet they'd be willing to talk us through it on the phone if needed. I agree...the PDF is a little vague. I need to pull mine in the next 6 months or so. I'm a total visual learner. A YouTube video from a pro would be amazing!

Jeff
Phoenix, AZ

[rt66john]

I just pulled the trans in 2016 and found the PDF to be quite helpful. 

A few notes:

In step one, the PDF says to remove the hex button head screws for the clutch cover.  Mine were torx; two of the three stripped the head.  They will be replaced with hex button head screws.

When removing the clutch slave piston, I didn't know I had to turn the adjustment screw to get the second nut off until I read it in the factory service manual.

The primary cover has oil in it.  Since I haven't done the pickup tube yet, I expected more than there actually was, but there will be oil.

Bruce recommended not removing the clutch line from the bottom of the cover, but I did anyway because I didn't see any way of storing the cover without damaging either it or the clutch line, at least not in my garage with the tools and stuff I have.  Your mileage may vary.

When you actually get to loosening the trans screws, there are 6!  It took a bit of staring and resizing of the pic to find the reason mine wouldn't come out.  If you have to do more than tap the output shaft with a rubber mallet, stop and see why.

I didn't move the rear wheel tensioners to get the drive sprocket off.  The drive belt held the sprocket in place while I removed the trans.  I hope lining up the splines won't be an issue when I install the trans.

Clear as mud now?   

[wytfut]

Love how you write buddy... cracked me up as a real shade tree guy like myself.

If u on attempt leave that clutch line on... you can either support it with a couple of chunks of wood or screw a bolt back in it...just to hood it.

Ive done 6 now.... and one I really had to wail on it..... piece of oak and a 2# hammer... just didnt want to come out. Harry Hanson's first X... a dws.

Those clutch cover bolts can be a real pain in a he butt. Over tighten with no lock title in that casting....... oh my do I wanna cuss...

Wasn't so bad was it?

[rt66john]

Shade tree?!  I have a garage!   It's poorly lit and not heated, but it's a garage.

I could have put the cover back, but I need to remove the failed stator and deal with the stripped clutch cover screws.  I had to drill the heads off of those.  Had my daughter been in the garage with me, I'm sure she would have learned a new word or two.