307 electrical problems

[blackheart]

Well i decided to take this bike out to pick up some car wash soap.
On my way back it started cutting out with the gauge pod & all losing power.  Definitely electrical in nature.  Bike starts fine.  Cables tight.

Any idea where to start besides checking fuses?

Ive not ridden this much but when i do ive never had issue with anything.

[steampunk]

First thing comes to mind of a general nature would be to make sure the bike is producing power: is the battery getting recharged by the bike?  Or is it running down and need a trickle charger?

On a bike not ridden much sometimes the bike needs a good run to get the charging system going. The trick is not to get stranded if the bike shuts down completely . . .

[2CoolWheels]

Blackheart,
   I would look closely at the ignition switch. If it's the original switch, it could be coming apart. Usually it's the cylinder that fails, and not the electrical part of the switch, but they can fail too.
I've also experienced battery cable failures, where they break at one end or the other. So be sure to check them and not just the bolts on the battery terminals.

[wytfut]

sounds electrical to me too Rich....
But Mike brings some good ideas to the table...as usual!
I've also seen where the battery terminals have actually shorted out on the battery cover..... another place to look. Our DWS had a blackened battery cover when we got it....
Another place to look would be the OEM grounds. If they haven't been upgraded..... with the age of our Xs, this certainly could be a place to look. they are too small in my opinion for OEM....
Bruce

[blackheart]

Thanks Bruce.  Ive cut back the battery cover long ago, added a ground to the frame from engine.  I took a quick look at cables without removing battery but they seemed fine.  I'll have to pull battery and check further my old shovelhead likesvto break cables off under insulation/shrink wrap.

I started to access fuse area but notice i must remove the rear exhaust and a host of other items.

[steampunk]

Did you check the fuse block under the seat?  Mine was kind of tucked in but there is a 3 blade fuse holder  just attached by the wire harness with a cap under just the seat.  I think it says 'Lights, Ignition, and Starter'.  Fuses would likely be good or bad though, not intermittent.

Putting my 1298 back together after getting acquainted it wouldn't start just today.  It turned out to be the ignition switch of course.  The Drag Specialties switch was just put on late last year!  Bike has been inside a heated building all winter!  I saw a 'stavos' switch mentioned on the forum but googling it didn't bring anything up.  Switch recommendations?  (In my area mid-city going without a key is not an option.

[wytfut]

Let me Kno what you find out Rich...  Always interesting..

Craig call Jamie/Marty....  SuperXparts.com ...  I'm pretty sure I bought the last Stamos switch from them this past summer, when mine grenaded this past summer. I do not know that are are going to restock up for that switch., As Jamie said although they are nice they have never made a penny on them.
Currently they have their own switch design, which I'd guess would be pretty much bullet proof, knowing Jamie.

[2CoolWheels]

Here's how I resolved my ignition switch problem. I used a Harley barrel type key switch. You can lock it off, or leave it unlocked without the key being in it, a feature I like. And it has a door to protect it from the weather. I did this back in 2014, and it has worked flawlessly since then.
http://www.ehforums.com/ehwebsite/forums/index.php?topic=418.msg1517#msg1517

[franknsr]

man, that looks nice.

[steampunk]

Yeah, the Drag Specialties is a knockoff of the Harley barrel switch, looks exactly like it and fits the mounting bracket good.  But why it stopped working is a mystery since it was parked in a heated inside space.  I popped the retaining ring off and it looks pretty simple inside: three springs and three moving contacts come loose when the switch is disassembled.  I don't see any corrosion.  It does have chrome plated instead of brass connectors. 

Is yours a real Harley switch or an aftermarket?  Maybe the Harley switch would be worth it.

My bike, having been bobbed and re-assembled with variously sourced parts, isn't up to the collector quality that Jamie and Marty work for.

[blackheart]

Well turns out my issue is a broken lug on the positive cable.  Just need a new end. 

On the switch comments my experience on cheap aftermarket HD parts has been very poor.  Id go with the OEM switch or equivalent.

[wytfut]

The OEM switches are getting rare, as time goes they appear all will grenade. Very sad situation.
Jamie/marties switch uses the OEM housing.
The stavos unit also uses OEM housing, and looks just like the factory switch when done.

Rich if you can find battery cable that doesn't hold memory as good as OEM you'll have better luck with the cables. In other words look for a cable that is limp. Again Jamie/Marty have theirs, which works very well